A stroll via Habana Vieja, Cuba


Cuba is a complicated nation with a sophisticated historical past and an unsure future. That future has not too long ago develop into much more unsure, with President Trump’s announcement that he plans to situation new sanctions and journey restrictions for the small island nation.

Additionally it is complicated due to the lip service that’s paid by individuals who might or might not know the true nature of Cuba. Some say that Cubans are the friendliest individuals on the planet. Others—often those that have by no means been there—counsel that Cuba is harmful.

I needed to see this place for myself, firsthand, earlier than the autumn of communism and a wave of American vacationers swept over it, turning it right into a Caribbean model of Cabo San Lucas.

Assembly my information

On my second day in Havana, I threw warning to the wind and struck out alone. Armed with a digital camera and 100 Cuban pesos, I walked in the wrong way of the vacationers, contemporary off of the cruise ship, and headed in direction of the slums on the outskirts of Habana Vieja.

I clutched my digital camera tightly as I wandered alongside the busy streets within the morning warmth. American automobiles from the 1950s lumbered by, and bikes darted out and in of visitors. Every time I crossed an intersection, it was like enjoying a sport of Frogger. Apparently, visitors legal guidelines are solely a suggestion in Havana.

Half-expecting to get mugged or have my digital camera gear stolen, I walked with my head on a swivel. Often, I might cease and take footage of the fantastically decayed buildings and historic vehicles.

I handed males sitting on doorsteps with (seemingly) nothing to do. There have been beggars pleading for just a few pesos and youngsters strolling to highschool in crisp new uniforms. It was complicated and provoking to see proud individuals getting by with so little.

I ended and appeared contained in the open doorway of a fantastically renovated previous constructing. I raised my digital camera and took an image of the inside.

“Good morning,” mentioned a person leaning towards the doorway.

“Hola,” I replied.

“Are you an expert photographer?” he requested.

“No, I’m a author.”

He advised me that the constructing was as soon as a theatre, however it had been transformed right into a nightclub. He requested if I needed to have a look inside.

“Sure, in fact,” I advised him. He turned and headed into the constructing and ascended a dimly lit stairway. I adopted.

I instantly regretted my choice. “Am I strolling right into a lure?” I puzzled. Following a stranger off the road and right into a random constructing was in all probability a foul thought.

I imagined that this might be the purpose in a horror film at which the viewers would yell, “No, don’t go!”  

I swallowed my fears and continued anyway.

On the prime of the steps, we came across an arched portico that surrounded an inside courtyard lit by the morning solar. I appeared down and admired a meticulously manicured backyard with flowers in full bloom.

My new buddy smiled. “You want?” he requested.


Previous Havana

On the far finish of the courtyard was a small bar with musical gear arrange within the nook. My new buddy, Alvaro, defined that he was a musician and invited me to come back and watch his band play that night.

“Would you want me to indicate you round Havana?”

“Sure, that will be nice,” I replied.

“What do you wish to see?”

I advised him I needed to see the true Havana. “Not the vacationer areas,” I mentioned.

“OK, include me.”

I adopted my information via the slim streets and alleys of previous Havana, previous decayed colonial buildings that had been crumbling beneath their very own weight. Laundry hung from the home windows above, fluttering within the morning breeze.

It rapidly grew to become apparent that communism had failed this place. Fidel Castro’s revolution, which promised a greater life for the poor, had been a failure. But, there have been small victories. By most accounts, violent crime is minimal in Cuba, and though there may be generally not sufficient meals to eat, Cubans nonetheless take pleasure in free common well being care and schooling.

Proudly, Alvaro advised me, “There isn’t a Mafia in Cuba. Do you will have Mafia in California?”  

“I don’t know, I do know that we have now gangs.”

“No gangs in Cuba,” he mentioned. “You’ll all the time be secure right here.”

Compassion isn’t restricted to Democrats

Small boy in doorway

And right here’s the massive query: How will Cuba preserve the few constructive issues which have come from the revolution, as they transfer in direction of a democratic and capitalist financial system? How will they keep away from the crime and drug issues that plague many ‘first-world’ nations? 

As I appeared round, I needed to agree with Alvaro. We had been in the midst of the slums, and I didn’t really feel unsafe. The truth is, I felt welcomed. The individuals on the road appeared comfortable that an American would exit of his solution to see the true Havana—to get away from the vacationer traps and see how the individuals actually lived.  

As we walked down an alley, a younger boy who was carrying a faculty uniform stopped me. “Americano?” he requested.

“Si,” I responded.

He made a fist and bumped knuckles with me. With out one other phrase, he continued down the road and disappeared round a nook.

Alvaro turned and headed into a neighborhood market. I ended and took footage of the colorful fruit and veggies that lined either side of the shop. Behind the constructing was a butcher, hacking off chunks of meat for his prospects.

A number of of the grocers smiled for the digital camera. I seen that certainly one of them was carrying an Oakland Raiders T-shirt. “You just like the Raiders?” I requested.

“Sure. They’re the very best!” he mentioned in damaged English.

“It’s too unhealthy they don’t win a lot,” I joked.

He laughed and smiled again at me.

As I made my means via the crowded stalls, I seen that the value of most gadgets was just a few pesos. “That’s so low-cost,” I assumed. Then it occurred to me that almost all Cubans stay on solely about 25 pesos per thirty days.

I requested Alvaro if issues had been higher for the Cuban individuals because the U.S. authorities opened up tourism 5 years in the past.

“It’s a lot better,” he mentioned. “Earlier than that, we barely had sufficient meals to eat. Now, issues are simpler. Mr. Obama was an excellent buddy to us.”

He puzzled if the brand new administration would have the identical compassion because the Democrats.

“Compassion isn’t restricted to Democrats,” I advised him. “All Individuals have compassion for people who find themselves struggling, it doesn’t matter what political social gathering they belong to.”

“I hope you’re proper,” he mentioned, as we exited the market and turned onto a serious thoroughfare. 

A part of a brand new motion

The odor of diesel fumes crammed the air. My information looped again and began heading east.

As we travelled down the highway, I noticed an previous girl who was sitting on a chair at a avenue nook. She was holding a strolling cane, and sat proudly subsequent to a desk stuffed with random gadgets on the market, together with bug spray, lighters and keychains. “Is that the pest management store?” I requested Alvaro.


Though her show was nearly comical by American requirements, she was a part of a brand new motion wherein a rising variety of Cuban entrepreneurs are beginning their very own personal companies.

In the previous few years, the federal government has made financial reforms which have allowed its residents to acquire personal enterprise licenses. As of 2016, greater than 500,000 licenses have been issued. Many extra entrepreneurs are working beneath the desk, outdoors of the official financial system.

We continued down the road, as perspiration dripped down the facet of my face. It was getting hotter and the humidity was climbing. Alvaro walked in the midst of the streets and zig-zagged forwards and backwards to keep away from oncoming visitors. At instances, it appeared as if the automobiles had been aiming for us. 

Often, Alvaro would cease and level out vital landmarks or factors of curiosity. I seen a well-dressed man sitting on a doorstep. I pointed my digital camera in his course and requested if I may take his image. He raised his finger and waved it forwards and backwards. 

“I assume meaning no,” I mentioned. Alvaro spoke to the person for a couple of minutes in Spanish. I couldn’t make out what they had been saying, however the man on the doorstep didn’t look comfortable.

“It’s a brothel.”  Alvaro advised me. “He doesn’t wish to have his image taken.”

 “OK. I get it.”

Havana is in a state of transition

Within the distance, I may see building cranes towering above the skyline, as town is being restored.

My goal was to see this place earlier than it modified, however it’s additionally thrilling to think about what it’s going to appear like in 20 years. It may simply develop into essentially the most lovely metropolis within the Americas.

I used to be reminded of the truth that Habana Vieja was named a World Heritage Website by the United Nations in 1983. This designation is given to cultural and historic websites which are vital to the collective pursuits of humanity.

My goal was to see this place earlier than it modified, however it’s additionally thrilling to think about what it’s going to appear like in 20 years. It may simply develop into essentially the most lovely metropolis within the Americas.

In some ways, Havana jogs my memory of Barcelona, Spain.  It has the identical sort of Baroque and neo-classical structure inside its historic centre.

But, there may be far more poverty within the streets. In different methods, it jogs my memory of Tijuana, Mexico. I feel that if Barcelona and Tijuana received collectively and had a child, its love youngster can be known as Havana.

“What do you concentrate on Cuba’s new President, Miguel Diaz-Canal?” I requested Alvaro, half-expecting him to get mad. I had learn someplace that vacationers ought to by no means speak politics in Cuba.

“It’s the identical authorities,” he answered. “Nothing modifications.”

“Do you assume issues will ever change?”

“I feel 10 years. I feel in 10 years, we are going to lastly have a democratic authorities,” he mentioned.

Will probably be our crucifixion

We continued strolling previous a park, and headed again in direction of our place to begin. I struggled to maintain up with my information, as he marched down the sidewalk. For a person practically 10 years my senior, he was in outstanding form.

As we approached the theatre, the place we’d begun our tour, I needed to ask Alvaro yet another query: “What do you concentrate on our President Trump?”

“I feel he is an effective man,” he mentioned. “I feel he’s making an attempt to place the screws on our authorities in order that issues will change.”

I reached into my pocket and handed him a 10-dollar invoice. “Thanks for exhibiting me round. I actually admire it.”

“You’re welcome,” he replied. “I needed you to see that Cubans are good individuals. We’re poor, however we do our greatest with the little we have now.”

“What is going to occur to the Cuban individuals if President Trump’s sanctions eradicate tourism?” I requested.

Alvaro paused for a second, and his face grew to become severe. “Will probably be our crucifixion.”


picture 1 Pixabay 2 Pixabay three Pixabay four Pixabay 5 Pixabay 6 Pixabay; All different pictures Bob Kelsoe


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